《鹿港歷史地圖散步》
《鹿港歷史地圖散步》
2023/07/05
2023/07/29
章節三：走過屋頂之城──鹿港大街<br>
展覽頁面呈現形式
縱式
策展者
中央研究院人社中心GIS專題中心
楊朝傑（國立臺灣大學歷史學所博士候選人）
展覽封面
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展覽資料
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"desc": "<div>乾隆47年（1782）10月，彰化平原爆發漳泉械鬥，事件蔓延，震驚朝廷，此時閩浙總督陳輝祖在一份呈送給乾隆皇帝的報告中，提到：「彰化縣鹿仔港口民戶殷繁，行舖稠密，向係商賈雲集之處，地方緊要。」雖說當時朝廷還未指定鹿港為「正口」，但這段描述卻也具體展現鹿港經濟活絡、商賈雲集的繁華盛況，特別是擁有經濟實力的大型行商匯集，成為官府注目所在。果然，械鬥事件結束的翌年（1783），朝廷研議鹿港與泉州蚶江對渡的航線，最終於乾隆49年（1784）拍板定案。</div><div><br></div><div>18世紀以降，鹿港與泉州兩岸貿易活絡的景象，在官修的方志中展露無遺。《彰化縣志》中記載：「鹿仔港，烟火萬家，舟車輻輳，為北路一大市鎮。西望重洋，風帆爭飛，萬幅在目，波瀾壯闊，接天無際，真巨觀也。」這就是鹿港帶給所謂「北路」──即臺灣府城（今臺南市）以北地區的繁榮景象。鹿港不只船隻頻繁進出，更因為各行各業匯聚發展，聚集經濟的結果，使得聚落也比起其他商業街市規模大上許多。</div>",
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"desc": "<div><span>鹿港這一大型的港街是由兩大市街體系構築而成：一為位在碼頭地帶的「舊街」，循著南北向的鹿港溪發展出的泉州街、埔頭街、瑤林街、暗街仔、后宅直至車圍的「舊街」 ，是輸送貨物的船頭行聚集之地。當地因應貨物的起落、搬運與銷售，逐漸發展出與港道垂直的店屋。狹長且深邃的店屋，分作前、中、後三段，各具功能。在港道卸貨後，即可由後門搬運入店，倉儲於中段，最終貨物可移至前段舖面販售，這就是清末鹿港文人洪棄生所見：「店前可以驅車，店後可以繫榜」的情景。除了舊街，另一處構成鹿港港街主體的就是統稱「鹿港大街」的商業地帶，也是現今到訪鹿港旅人觸目所及近代店屋聳立的中山路。不過，這條在清代「長三里許，泉、廈郊商居多」的鹿港大街，可不是由單一街道組成。其實，《彰化縣志》中說得很清楚：「港中街名甚多，總以鹿港街概之」。清代「鹿港大街」大致要從舊祖宮前的北頭街開始，經菜市頭街、崎仔腳街以及所謂「五福大街」的順興街、福興街、和興街、泰興街、長興街，還有街尾的板店街（又稱洽興街），綿延1,700多公尺。</span></div>",
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"desc": "<div>鹿港大街不只又名馬芝大道，還曾因為店屋與店屋之間的街道上建有「街路亭」，綿延的軒亭遮天蔽日，所以也被稱作「不見天街」。目前有關「街路亭」最早的紀錄是存留在19世紀初民間的土地買賣契約之中。嘉慶10年（1805）閏六月〈宋啟記、陳圖觀立賣杜禁絕根契字〉記載：「立杜賣盡絕根契字人宋啟記、陳圖觀，有合買過陳登仕店壹座貳進，隨帶屏樓門窗戶扇磚石瓦木等項俱全，坐落鹿港大街頂車路下棚仔畔第十間，前至街路亭壹半為界、後至車路為界、左至隆德號公壁、右至綿源號公壁，四至明白為界」。</div><div><br></div><div><div>清末洪棄生的〈鹿港乘桴記〉一文中，大概是現存對鹿港不見天街最早的描繪，他寫道：「樓閣萬家，街衢對峙，有亭翼然，亙二三里，直如弦，平如砥，暑行不汗身，雨行不濡履。」這段話彰顯不見天街具有遮陽避雨的功用。 </div><div><br></div><div>醫師林坤元是生活在不見天街時代的鹿港人，他的《九十隨筆》中的記述，帶領我們從街尾走進不見天街：「從臺灣製糖株式會社鹿港五分車火車站下車後，經過右側一座『小塗城』前進入鹿港街仔，似乎在走山洞。首先踏入板店街然後經過泰興街、金和興街、福興街、順興街（魚脯街）、玉順街（菜市頭街），一直到天后宮（舊祖宮）媽祖宮口為止，有如過一條很長的山洞，再炎熱酷暑，一旦到此，不無如入仙洞之感，涼爽舒適之餘，更有點陰冷之感」。</div></div><br><br><br>",
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"desc": "<div><div>日清鼎革之後，綿延一公里多的不見天街，被日本人稱為「鹿港的隧道街」，因為街道構造較為罕見，而成為臺灣特色，留下不少紀錄。在武內貞義所著《臺灣》就如此記載：「市街的主要道路採所謂『隧道式』構造，市街上方建有堅固的屋頂，雖然開設採光窗，但是室內採光極差，連白晝也需要終日點燈」。</div><div><br></div><div>在不見天街，採光天窗看來是尷尬的存在，那抹陽光還是難以透照。《臺灣風物》收錄一篇蔡懋棠所撰〈鹿港滄桑的點滴〉，在他的記憶中，「天窗是方形、大小約三尺方左右，天窗彼此間的相隔大概有三十公尺左右吧」。對於他那個年代的孩子來說，天窗記憶或許是種味蕾：「從天窗往下看，如果有賣好吃的東西，就由這個天窗放下竹籃，籃中置幾枚銅錢，叫賣小吃點心的攤販放進等值的食物，之後吊上來吃」。</div><div><br></div></div><div>確實，鹿港當地會發展出不見天街的建築景觀，是順應著濱海地帶的環境變遷所生。鹿港諺語「鹿港風，彰化蚊」，強調當地每到冬季，強勁的東北季風往往造成生活上的不便，但「街路亭」的建立，卻可以有效阻擋強風襲擾。尤其18世紀末以來，彰化海岸快速淤積，沙岸在強風吹擾之下，經常是漫天飛沙。在《臺灣日日新報》中就曾刊登清代以來困擾鹿港的沙害問題：「鹿港街衢，地處海市，一遇狂風驟雨，則沙塵蔽空，咫尺莫辨，坐賈行商之輩，托足其間，皆視此邦之景象而相弁為畏途焉」。</div><div><br></div><div>1930年代的《辜顯榮翁傳》更具體說到沙害與不見天街發展的關係：「鹿港市街是世界上乃屬獨一無二的特殊建築，是因應鹿港的自然環境所發展出來的建築形式，原來鹿港的土地是由濁水溪的泥土以及沿岸潮流所帶來泥沙所沖積形成，每年季風來臨期間，捲起滿天的風沙，強風夾著砂礫像箭一樣往人的臉上撲來，若是在戶外連眼睛都幾乎張不開，因此居住海岸地帶的居民許多人患有眼疾，其罹患率據稱破世界紀錄」。</div>",
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"desc": "<div>雖說「車路亭」具備防風、防雨、防曬、防沙害等功能，卻也存在採光不足、空氣凝滯、悶濕的缺點。曾任鹿港公學校教師的春日萍汀回憶說道：「走在路上撲鼻而來的是以醫油燉煮豬肉的味道混合著香煙繚繞的奇特氣味。此外道路上舖設著磚塊，相當容易滑倒，穿布鞋或是纏足走起來比較容易，但是穿木屐或是皮鞋就顯得有點寸步難行了」。\n\n<br></div><div><br></div><div>不過，脫離街道，街路亭的上方的屋頂便是另一個世界。屋頂用途的多元與奇特，讓日本人以「屋頂之城鹿港街」稱之。在那個保守的傳統年代，街路亭上的屋頂是人們乘涼的去處，甚至是孩子和婦女們的天堂，許多人的回憶裡頭，都刻印著在這裡發生的故事。像是蔡嵩林〈昔日的鹿港〉一文就回憶：「每逢夏天傍晚時分，大家經常到『街路亭』的屋頂上乘涼，有的下象棋，有的聊天，和腳下的街道相比自成一個悠閒的世界。而在這個屋頂上散步，南來北往也是相當有趣的，到了晚上這裡也是男女幽會的場所。以前盜賊猖獗，據說若是街上有狀況時，『街路亭』上方的『屋頂道路』就成為另外一條交通要道。還有在女孩子足不出戶的舊時代，『屋頂道路』也是她們的出入道路之一」。\n\n</div><br>",
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"desc": "<div>隘門可謂是不見天街最倚重的防禦設施。鹿港當地流傳：「怙惡不過隘門」的俗語，意思是說械鬥發生的時，只要邁入自家隘門範圍，敵方就不敢再追。隘門是清代臺灣治安不良的商業聚落的設施，為磚石構造建築，其型態大者如城門，設有銃櫃，用於重要據點，數量不多；小者如牌坊，普設於街頭巷尾，兩者皆設有兩扇大門及一扇小門，白天開啟，入夜則關閉，其用途在於防止盜賊侵入，以及減少械鬥時街內人員的損傷，因此隘門之內就形成獨立的領域，也發展出各自的防禦範圍。</div><div><br></div><div><div>雖然鹿港有「怙惡不過隘門」的淺規則，但現存的史料仍可以找到跨越隘門鬥毆的事件，其中一例就是同治7年（1868）8月12日爆發於鹿港大街的擄人槍擊命案。當時舊祖宮附近的宮後份（祖籍潯海）施姓在車路口街追擄石廈份（祖籍前江）施姓，起因為何，不得而知。宮後份施姓同夥還有復吉號許沙、金義春號許棟，以及鹿港街鄰近的許厝埔及鐮溝厝庄的許姓數十名壯漢，各持刀銃、鉛藥追隨在後。當時，子彈紛飛，在車路口街經商的王興及路人蘇寶，因閃避不及，不幸擊中心臟身亡。王興的祖父王箋分別向北路理番鹿仔港海防捕盜同知、彰化縣知縣呈控，經歷二年五任官員，幾經周折，都未能公斷。</div><div><br></div><div>\n\n其中一份同知洪熙儔給出示諭中指出：「宮後份施姓與石廈份施姓搶擄械鬥一案，該役遵飭辦理，詎二比族大丁多，屢行報復，公親調處不息」。這也難怪清末鹿港文人莊太岳作竹枝詞感嘆道：「宮後牛墟又菜園，況兼前港更難言。誰知三姓施黃許，怙惡原不過隘門。」生動說明三大姓所佔地盤（宮後地區─潯海施姓、牛墟地區─許姓、菜園地區─黃姓、祖籍前港/前江的施姓），施、黃、許三大姓時有利益之爭，而施姓與施姓因祖籍之別、身分等差異，也常起紛爭。</div>\n\n</div><br>",
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"desc": "雖然市區改正前置作業遭遇許多考驗，最終於昭和8年（1933）11月21日，第一階段拆除街道上街路亭的工程開工，緊接著是第二階段及第三階段，11月27日起至12月16日，約有六百多戶拆除重建。今日我們走訪鹿港，佇立於中山路兩旁的店屋，許多都是在此脈絡下改建而成。當時正值臺灣各地掀起一波「市區改正」的高峰，不見天街拆除與修造新街道吸引了許多人前往考察，留下不少影像。最值得一談的是，鹿港鎮公所迄今還保留71幅日治時期玻璃底片，其中66幅為不見天街拆除前後的，5幅為附近農村棋盤厝舉辦農產品展示會的紀錄照，這一系列街區改建影像相當稀罕。這批影像的現世，要歸功於任職於鹿港鎮公所的攝影師林彰三先生。民國50年（1961），他在公所倉庫保險鐵箱中發現分裝於九個紙盒的玻璃底片，古老影像經過掃描重現於世人眼前。近年則在其子林君勇先生以高階掃描器重新掃描底片之後，浮現更多驚人細節。這些珍貴影像無疑具象不見天街的輪廓，也似乎能嗅到海風氣息，收聽到工程忙碌的聲響，翻閱一張張影像，也一步步引領我們踏足20世紀初的鹿港大街。\n\n<br>",
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